Day 14/15 – August 23rd and 24th - Travelling Home

Getting back tool 2 days primarily because I couldn’t plan things to be too close to each other.

Having arrived in Kemi yesterday I could have in theory taken the train down to Turkhu (if I had left Haparanda earlier). But this would have been a close call and frankly it was nice not to have to stress out and rush.

Train left at 0830 and an hour later we arrived in Oulu where I had to wait until 1545! The reason for this wait was because of engineering works being carried out on the route south and as I had a bike I couldn’t use the replacement bus service.

Not that I really minded but it meant I was not able to catch the night ferry to Stockholm. The Tourist Information office were more than happy to let me sit with them and use their internet. It was quite a relaxing afternoon.

I must say that I was very impressed with the Finnish trains. Comfortable seats, good choice in the buffet car, power and radio channels at each seat and the very ingenious way of storing bikes. There was a special area that allowed bikes to be stored along with skiing equipment and that everything could be locked up and made secure so you didn’t have to worry about anybody walking off the train with your bike.

Arrived in Turkhu late and was up early to catch then ferry to Stockholm. It was a lovely crossing and I splashed out on a day cabin so I was able to crash out and sleep and little and read my book in peace.

Once I got back into Stockholm I cycled home and Susie and Fredrik surprised me with a huge welcome :) They had gone to a lot of trouble and organised a cake as well as having a special plaque made for me so that I will always remember this trip.

What a great end to what has been a great 2 weeks of cycling

Day 13 – August 22nd 2010 – Haparanda to Kemi

30KM of easy riding along a bike path punctuated by my only conversation with fellow cyclists that I didn’t start :)

I was stopped by a couple of Finnish Sunday cyclists and we chatted about my journey from Stockholm and they told me all about their club. Was nice talking to some real enthusiasts. They told me that Finland was great for cycling as they have so many bike paths unlike Sweden which only has them in cities. Maybe I will come and do some cycling in Finland one day.

Arrived in Kemi and could only see the one hotel that is close to the station. Suits me fine as its clean and reasonably priced.

Going to get my ticket for tomorrow and then chill.

Will be nice to see Susie on Tuesday

Day 12 – August 21st 2010 – Töres to Haparanda

Done it!!

Great nights sleep in the huge hotel where I was the only guest. Managed to take a peek in one of the other rooms and just like mine it was huge! Each room contains a single bed and is about 30m2 and some with kitchens.

The ride was easy enough but some of the roads were just awful. The last half of the day just seemed to drag on for ever especially as the scenery was so monotonous. It was really hard work not to keep glancing at the mileage because it was depressing how slow I was going.

For some reason I kept looking for bears :) I have seem hardly any wild life at all in the last few days. Have the hunters shot everything or does nothing really live in these vast forests? I wonder if my squeaky bike and crunching of my tyres frighten everything away.

Reached the Finnish border but I was still some 20KM short of the end because the route went some way north to avoid the E4. As a result I dropped in at a historic fishing village at a place called Kukkola. They had a restaurant but I was far too shabby to eat there so I carried on.

Stopped at the first hotel I came across (it turned out it was basically the only one in town itself) and it seemed I’m not the only one who stops off here. They put my bike in the “bike cupboard” which is the unofficial home of the bikes and gave me a room with a bath.

Had lunch and got a few things from the Konsum before retreating to my room to chill.

110KM today

Total for the 12 days has been 1611KM with an average speed of just over 20KM an hour and a maximum speed of 60KM!!

Day 11 – August 20th 2010 – Piteå to Tore

Up at 0500 and on the road by 0600. No wind and no rain so it was a great day for the weather.

There is no doubt that I am very tired having cycled everyday with even 60KM on my one day off.

The ride from Piteå to Lulea was pretty plain with nothing of any interest. In fact I struggled all day to take any meaningful photos of nice scenery as there wasn’t really much to see.

Didn’t pay attention at one point and took a wrong turn onto the E4. The result was that I had to walk back on the hard shoulder as I couldn’t cross over to the other side because of the central reservation.

Lulea was a nice break and came right in the middle of the days ride. Was a miracle I didn’t get lost getting across the city because some of the sigh posting was very iffy. I was also a little too early for lunch so I carried on planning to eat the other side.

Of course I didn’t find anywhere for 2 hours by which time it was greasy truck stop on the side of the E4. Still the food was filling stodge and set me up for the afternoons ride.

At one point the map and the sign posts where in complete contradiction. I can only assume that the route that the map had marked had been ruled as not being allowed and thus it had been re-routed. The offending length of road was a blocked off chunk of road that must have been the original road before the E4 was opened. This road was blocked at both ends but the local lads had found a way onto the road. Thus it was covered with old beer cans and burnt rubber from all the doughnuts that they had performed.

The re-routed and my map eventually met up and the last 15KM for the day were by the hardest. It was horrid undulating forest road covered in those little stones again. Had to munch lots of my food to get the energy to do the last stretch.

Very unusual hotel. It was just closing when I arrived and I seem to have the whole place to myself. Breakfast is in the fridge so I can leave when I like tomorrow.

160KM today. Tomorrow is Haparana

Day 10 – August 19th 2010 – Skellefteå to Piteå

I do like Vandrahems :) Was a quiet night and the bed was very comfortable. I think it must be the good nights sleep in conjunction knowing that I am not being ripped off by a hotel. I’m still upset with the crappy Scandic in Umeå.

Anyway after a slight late start (breakfast was served at 0700) I left Skellefteå heading for Piteå. Actually if truth be known I wanted to go further as Piteå to Tores looks a long way and as the weather is getting more Autumnal I don’t want to risk cycling long distances in rain/cold.

Anyway the wind was still with me today and it was hard going. Combine this with some truly crap roads (8KM of little stones just itching to give me a puncture) and the fact that I have less and less energy every day made for a miserable morning. Then I remembered I had some kryptonite gel in my bags so I took a squirt and that did the trick.

Arrived in Piteå just after 1400 so grabbed some lunch and then went looking for somewhere to stay. I had passed the Vandrahem earlier so headed back there only to find they were full!!! They were able to point me to an alternative hostel which is where I am now. However I almost had a disaster when the young lad forgot to give me some sheets and a towel!! I certainly didn’t want to have to dry myself with a tee-shirt and then sleep in all my clothes. I was able to catch him in the car park so disaster was averted at the last minute.

The place is a bit strange. I think its an old barracks, it certainly has the feel. In fact it looks like an old barracks that was converted into student accommodation that is now used as a hostel. It has a washing machine so I have been able to wash my clothes (not that I have many). Raided the local supermarket so I have made myself some dinner and have everything I need for breakfast tomorrow.

110KM today

Day 9 – August 18th 2010 – Robertfors to Skellefteå

Best night yet, the vandrahem was a real find.

Sadly for the third morning in a row I had a flat tyre. On top of that because of rim damage the tyre kept popping out of the wheel hub. This means that I am going to have to watch the air pressure very closely and not over inflate the tyre.

The wind today was horrendous. It was mainly blowing from the East and therefore I was either cycling into it or had it coming in at an angle all day. Combine this with no energy made for a tough ride.

The scenery remains beautiful but it would be nice to see a bit of a change. Endless farmland and woods is getting a bit boring.

Refused to pay the extortionate prices that the big hotels were charging and ended up at the Vandrahem which is run by the church. A nice benefit of that was that I had to cycle a little out of town and in the process went past an area called Bonn Stan which is an area containing dozens of house from the start of the 19th century. The houses are all over 200 years old and quite a unique sight to see so many in one place.

140KM today which combined with yesterday made it 220KM from Umea. I was right to split it into 2 days

Day 8 – August 17th 2010 – Umea to Robertfors

After yesterday’s hard ride I was determined to take it easier today.

I had as a target Robertfors which I estimated to be about 50KM, in the end it turned out to be 80KM.

But I am ahead of myself. Slept incredibly well from just before 2100 until 0600. Was a bit miffed to see that the back tyre was flat so changed the inner tube to save time.

One place of note that I went through was Sävar which was the location of the last batte to be fought on Swedish soil between Sweden and Russia in 1809 during the 30 years war.

Battle of Ratan and Sävar

About 40KM into the day I had a double puncture (two in the same place at the same time) so that stopped me for a bit. Wasn’t stressed though as I wasn’t planning on going too far. Then I started wondering what I would do if the Vandrahems were shut because the summer season actually ended on Sunday! I am seeing lots of places closed for the season.

Luck would have it that the golf club had a place to stay so that’s were I am now. The accommodation dates from the 1960’s when this used to be a farm supplying the workers in the nearby Iron Works.

80KM today

Day 7 – August 16th 2010 – Örnsköldsvik to Umea

Up and out early after a hearty breakfast.

Bit cooler today so lots of problems getting my hydration working properly. Drank too much and need to stop for a pee every hour or so.

Some of the roads today were terrible with one stretch consisting of 8KM of crushed rocks. The result was a very wobbly back wheel which turned out to be the spokes. Managed to find a very helpful shop who fixed it all in no time. I also bought 2 new tyres and threw the old ones away as they were nearly bald.

Bonked badly in the afternoon due to eating poorly yesterday. I didn’t eat enough and hence I had no reserves for the afternoon ride. Ended up using one of the energy boost gels which helped.

Arrived in Umea though no time to meet up with any friends.

160KM today

Tomorrow is going to be tough looking at the maps, its a long way, so early to bed tonight to get as much rest as possible. I’m pretty shattered.

Day 6 – August 15th 2010 – Docksta to Örnsköldsvik

Day off today.

Well almost, I really can’t spend the day at a truck stop so I decided to get to Örnsköldsvik so that I could have a day in a place with a population bigger than 20 people and a dog.

Day didn’t start so well though because I had a flat tyre. Fixed it but it all cost time which on top of the fact that I didn’t start until gone past 1000 meant that my day off was ticking away

Really can’t fault the scenery, the high coast is known as Little Norway and it really is beautiful.

Hit a pot hole going about 40kmph down a forest road which put a whacking dent in the rear wheel rim. This caused the back brake to rub and made using it impossible. Luckily I found a friendly cafe who lent me a huge hammer (didn’t have anything smaller) which I used to gently tap the dent back. Lets hope my repair holds.

I also decided to not do any significant cycling in Finland, I will leave it for another day. This is going to make the rest of the trip a lot more relaxing.

Lovely relaxing Sunday just chilling and resting. Some big days ahead of me but I am feeling a lot more relaxed about it.

Only one worry is Susie as she isn’t well and I am waiting to hear if I need to get back to Stockholm.

55KM today which on top of yesterdays 170KM means I am not that far off an average of 150KM a day even with my day off today.

Day 5 – August 14th 2010 – Sundsvall to Docksta

Had a bath, did some laundry and ate an Indian meal.

Great nights sleep.

Was on the road by 0700 but somehow I got lost at about the 40KM mark. Really annoying to double back especially as I had gone up a long hill!, not a happy camper.

The weather was fantastic as was the countryside. Lots of undulating countryside that yesterday killed me but today my saddle sores were a lot quieter.

Had an equipment failure when my saddle broke which could have been a disaster. Luckily I was about to have lunch at Härnösahamn and I was able to leave my bike with a very helpful bike technician at InterSport. The young lad at the Tourist Information even offered me the saddle off his bike (well it was his brothers).

Absolutely nowhere to stay on my way to Dogsta. Was really hoping it was going to be something special as it’s next to the water. Turned out to be a well known truck stop on the side of the E4. Ate quickly a meal because they closed 10 minutes after I arrived, nowhere else to eat, not even a pizza!

Day 4 - August 13th 2010 – Hudiksvall to Sundsvall

Late start due to the hostel not doing breakfast until 0800. Have to start earlier as it torpedoes the day.

Didn’t sleep that great, people using the bathrooms all night and doors banging.

My butt is very sore so wasn’t looking forward to the ride today.

The cycling was fantastic though, by far the best so far. Wonderful countryside with many different things to look at. Woods, forests, beaches, farmland, pretty villages you name it.

Had lunch at an old iron works.

The morning had been very tough on my legs because of all of the ups and downs. Undulating countryside looks great but it is hard :)

So decided to call it a day at Sundsvall which was still a not so shabby 120KM for the day. There looked to be built up area for quite a way along the river but if its anything like what I went past its all heavy industry so not much chance of a nice place to stay.

Treated myself to a hotel so I could get a bath and soak the legs

Need to do some laundry as well so the heated towel rail will come in handy.

Day 3 – August 12th 2010 – Gavle to Hudiksvall

Awake at 0500 so packed and prepared for the day ahead. Breakfast was at 0600 which meant that I was able to get an early start which was just as well as today was going to be a tough one.

The mornings ride to Soderhamn was largely through forest which seemed to never end! Some of the roads were straight for what seemed miles and hence very boring to cycle down.

Had lunch and chatted to a local who explained a bit about the local area. The economy of the city had been hugely impacted by the closure of Ericsson and a large military base, thus no jobs for the young. Actually the receptionist at the hotel said that jobs were hard to come by as well in Gavle.

The afternoon ride involved a choice which actually was quite easy. There was an optional loop which I skipped purely because there seemed no where to stay. As it was I had to push out the miles today to make it to Hudiksvall where I found the Vandrahem down by the beach :) Breakfast is at 0800 so an enforced late start tomorrow so I shall probably be less ambitious with the mileage.

Legs are going strong and even the pressure points on my butt stopped hurting so much. So health wise I am good to go. I’m drinking plenty and probably eating too much but I need the calories (least that’s my excuse)

Another 185KM done, my longest day todate

Day 2 – August 11th 2010 – Hallstavik to Gavle

No curtains on the window so I was awake by 0530. Breakfast was delivered on a tray at just gone 0600. Salty porridge, boiled egg,coffee and a couple of bread and cheese, breakfast of the champions!

All thoughts of an early start were put on hold when I gave the landlady a hand with her internet. Seems that the wireless connection I used the previous night was hers and she was a bit upset to find out that it was completely open. Left her my email address so I can maybe help her out.

The cycling was a lot easier today as my legs knew what was in store for them. Took it easy and kept chanting the mantra “Save the legs, save the legs”. Shame about my butt!

Some really interesting towns on the way as the route wound its way through the heart of what had been the 18th century centre of the industrial revolution.

Lunch was kind of difficult because the only place that looked like it was big enough to have any where to eat was too early in the days ride. However a real treat was in store for me at Lövstabruk, check it out, and I had lunch in an 18th century inn.

161KM to Gavle and all thoughts of shopping around for a good value room to staywent out of the window when I went past the first hotel. Lucky for me it was clean and cheap :)

Day 1 – August 10th 2010 – Stockholm to Hallstavik

Woke at 4am eager to get on my way until Susie told me to go back to sleep and stop being a silly bugger! Did remember to pack my passport though in case I should get as far as Finland.

Alarm woke me at 6am and after a final goodbye to Susie (looking very sleepy under the duvet) I headed off.

The day passed in a blur. I would like to say it was because of my speed and supreme fitness but in fact it was all the sweat poring into my eyes. I need to add a sweat band to my packing list!

Lunch at Norrtälje and strawberries in Almsta was about the highlight of the day. Arrived in Hallstavik only to find that there wasn’t really any where to stay in town. A quick call to the tourist board and my 2nd call found me with a place to stay.

147KM for the day plus a further 13KM to find where I was to stay! Still it was worth it with my own little cabin, very clean, quiet and great value. The wonderful landlady is even going to make me porridge tomorrow morning at 0630! What more could you ask for.

To top it all off there is even wireless internet open nearby, just hope they don’t mind me using it