Wednesday, 14 August 2019

Day 5 - Sidmouth to Dartmouth 85km


Great nights sleep and waking to the sound of crashing waves. Perfect start

Monster climb out of Sidmouth but spectacular views back out across the coast. Legs are really tired so I am already thinking that my target of Barnstaple is unrealistic. Probably could do it if I had to but where is the joy in just pushing out the miles and not enjoying the actual journey. Just setting the scene for excuses as to why I don’t make it but frankly the scenery is just too beautiful and varied to just ride past it, heads down, cursing the hills

The route to Exmouth was uneventful except at one point I made a bad decision and took a “short cut” that didn’t work and I had to push the bike down a muddy embankment to get onto the bike path which turned out to be a disused railway

Today I have been incredibly lucky. I looked at the timing of the Exmouth ferry and as it wasn’t running until something like 1030 decided my route should be up the Ex estuary and then cross at Topsham further up. Good decision as the scenery and the bike trail were both stunning. Not such a good idea as the ferry didn’t run on Tuesdays! Found the hut and by a huge stroke a luck there was somebody there. He had forgotten it was Tuesday and was just hanging around to see if anybody turned up. Second oldest ferry route in the UK having been going for 500 years. Manhandled the bike onto the ferry and off the other side getting a bit muddy in the process as it was low tide. He even waived the two pound fare, what a gent 😊

The ride back down the estuary was equally beautiful. Passed a family on Bromptons and Asked how far they went on them. 50 miles easily but get the tyres changed to the marathon ones as the standard ones aren’t very puncture resistant. Good advice for next year.

Lost access to the big ring on my gears so found a bike shop in Newton Abbot where he adjusted the gears for me and where I was also able to buy a better coat than the one I have with me. The one I have with me has lost all its water proofing so it just useful to keep me warm in a shower. The new one is cheap and cheerful but is at least a bit more shower proof than the one I have. I could have gone for a rain proof one but whats the point I don’t intend to cycle hours in the rain if it rains that much. The bike shop was part of a charity complex for children providing a skate park. Great to see how much it was being used

Lovely ride through my fathers home town of Torquay famous for its palm trees and title of the English Riviera. Cycled through Torre Abbey built in 1196 and along the coast. Stopped for an ice cream, it is the seaside after all, and watched all the holiday makers. Tourism is alive and well in the UK still and people certainly seemed to be having a good time.

The day has been one climb after another (though none quite as bad as the first one out of Sidmouth) and I am tired so on reaching Dartmouth I stopped for the night. Stayed in a 14th century inn just by the ferry next to a tavern and the best fish and chip shop. Apart from being tired there was nowhere really to stay between here and Plymouth and I want to go via Slapton Sands and Kingsbridge and there was nothing down there I could find and its too far to start this late in the day.

So that’s it, Barnstaple is now not doable and frankly it’s a good decision. Sat with Google maps for a while and have made some alternative routes. Depending on the hills (and the profiles look very lumpy) I will be happy to make Penzance

No comments: