Having cycled around the Baltics I was able to use my hybrid bike because getting around was possible using ferries as Stockholm is a hub, however this isn't going to hack it for going anywhere else because taking a bike on a train or bus out of Stockholm is pretty much impossible. Flying is also a major pain in the butt because i need to put the bike in a box and then somehow store it at the other end or get another box to fly back.
So..... Welcome to my new Brompton
Idea is I can take this on any form of transport including aircraft without any permission or special packing.
So took it for a practice run at the weekend
Went fairly well and did 90km but had to abandon the ride because of 2 flat tires. So it was down to the bike shop and new tires (Marathon) just like i was advised to do when i bumped into the Brompton tourers in Devon
Will try again next weekend
Thursday, 29 August 2019
Monday, 19 August 2019
Day 8 – Lizard Point to Penzance 45km
Oh my god,
worst nights sleep in a very long time. Problem was that the bed was a 6 foot
bunk bed with what felt had a slight dip in the mattress. My legs are so tired
from the cycling that I needed to stretch them out but because the bed had a
wall at one end and a cupboard at the other I couldn’t. I am also more than 6
foot so my poor old legs didn’t appreciate being cramped all night. I tossed
and turned all night each time causing the bed to creak and groan, felt sorry
for the other guy in the room who was in the bunk opposite
I
eventually gave up and collected my things in the dark, thank goodness I never
unpack so all I had to do was grab a few things on the floor and under my
pillow. Couldn’t sleep so I though it best just to go down to the lounge and do
some reading as sleep was impossible. Was pleased to find out it was 04.50 so
dawn wasn’t too far away. Had a shave as I look like a yeti. Messed about with
my bags to ensure I was ready for the journey back and for handing the bike
back.
As dawn
arrived a young Italian lady joined me in the lounge as she had a bus to catch.
I got the bike out from the store and headed off. My first and only dawn ride
as normally I have to start late as breakfasts haven’t been served until well
after 8. Lots of wildlife, the world is a different place this time in the
morning. Reminded me of my rides in Ireland as I always started at dawn due to
the short days
The ride up
to Helston and RNAS Caldrose was lovely and then the rain started. Took a
detour to Porthleven which is where my Aunt Sarah has a holiday cottage. In
fact this whole area is where my mother had her childhood when she came back
from South America. She lived here in Porthleven and went to school in Helston
(where she took part in the floral dance). I went past the cottage and carried
on with the coast road. Rain got heavier
Five miles
out of Penzance and the wind and rain is so hard I can hardly see. I am
completely soaked and the route has me going along the South Coast path across
the top of the beach. I take shelter in a toilet for 5 minutes to check maps
and see if I can find a quicker route but decide to just go for it. Arrived at
the train station soaked to the skin and covered in sand. Bleh
The nice
chap at the station let me use the disabled toilet so I was able to strip off
and wash myself down using the tiny washbasin. Dried myself off with toilet paper
and changed into some dry clothes ready for the train journey back to London.
Train was full on the 0900 but managed to get a slot on the 1000.
5 and a
half hours later I was back in London at Paddington Station. Rode through Hyde
Park, past Buckingham Palace, down the Mall to Trafalgar Square, down the
Strand and into Fleet Street where I picked up some new glasses I had ordered a
few weeks after Susie had had her operation. Then down the embankment over
London bridge and handed in the bike
So ends the
first leg of my around UK bike ride. Not my longest at just over 700km but
certainly some of the hilliest
Day 7 – Polperro to Lizard Point 105km
Last major
day of cycling as tomorrow I intend to go back to London
Slept well
and had a good breakfast. Got to love these B&B that charge you good money
and then limit you to how many things you can have for breakfast. Not that I
was bothered but how much do they save making me choose between a tomato or
beans? Surely they lose more through loss of goodwill?
Huge climb
out of Polperro followed by a pleasant ride to Polruan which is my first ferry
of the day. Polruan is a pretty Cornish fishing village with an incredibly
steep road down to the harbour. There was a queue and what with me turning up
with my bike the ferry captain went off to get a bigger ferry. Short hop across
the harbour to Fowey which is another pretty village with a category 4 climb out
of it! Wasn’t so easy to find the way out and Google had me riding on a
footpath (which a lady walking her dog reminded me I shouldn’t be riding on),
but I eventually found my way.
Rode
through Carlyon Bay which is a very nice looking resort including a hotel that
we almost stayed in a couple of weeks ago. Also caught a glimpse of the Eden
Project on the horizon something else we almost went to a couple of weeks ago.
This is an amazing project where they have recreated a rain forest and other
climates under two domes. Very popular tourist attraction but I have no time to
visit it today
Next
destination was Mevagissey which is another pretty fishing village and where I
decided to have lunch. Couple of sandwiches and a fruit scone with cream and
jam which I apparently ate incorrectly. The Cornish eat theirs by first putting
on the jam and then adding the cream. In Devon they put on the cream on first
and then add the jam. So I was eating mine the Devon way, however I did explain
that I was born in Devon so they excused me 😊 Just to keep everyone happy I then ate the second half the Cornish way.
Question is how do they eat them in Dorset?
Huge climb
out of town and I made my way up and down to my next ferry at St Mawes. Another
lovely village with quite a few steps to the ferry which required me to
dismantle the bike bags. Was able to manhandle everything down and up the other
side into Falmouth. Didn’t hang around as Falmouth is nice enough but its just
a busy town that I have seen before a few times. Legs are really tired and I am
still some way to go plus its getting late, still have a few hours but I don’t
like cycling too late in case I have to make any emergency changes
Lovely ride
to the next and last ferry crossing at Helford Passage. The river was a very
popular with families everywhere and children playing in the water and on the
beach. Manhandled the bike across the beach to the ferry point and into the
little ferry. Soon I was across and time for the final leg to Lizard Point
where I had booked into the youth hostel. Spent way too much on B&Bs the
last few days but its been unavoidable as there has been no hostels available
in the last few stops. Eventually arrived, found the hostel and grabbed some
food from a local pub, fantastic fisherman’s pie. Crashed out really early as
tomorrow I have no breakfast booked so I want to make an early start in the
morning.
Day 6 – Dartmouth to Polperro 95km
Great sleep
though I was woken a little early by the bin lorry backing up and the seagulls.
I love the seaside and would like nothing more then settle down with sound of
the crashing waves in the background and the smell of the sea. It’s a very
different sensation to the seaside in the Baltics where there is little salt in
the sea and few waves
Pouring the
rain, absolutely chucking it down, thank goodness I purchased the rain top and
sorry Susie for losing your poncho with the sheep all over it. Actually lucky I
didn’t have it as it would have proved no good in the wind
Monster
climb out of Dartmouth with the castle in the background. Last time we were
here they were filming a TV series in the area. Was determined to go to
Plymouth via Slapton Sands as this is the area that Susie and I walked back in
the 80’s. Our first holidays were on a shoe string as we had little money so I
borrowed camping gear from the army and we walked the South Coast coastal path.
Many fun and adventures were had and I have great memories of those days
Found the
fields where Susie and I had had to abandon the coastal path all those years
ago. The coast path had fallen into the sea so we had to climb over a barbed
wire fence and walk through the farmer fields. We say the farmer on that day so
I walked over to him to ask permission. He said it was very nice of me to ask
and most people didn’t bother. Warned me about the bull in the last field and
that he would be no problem as he had a field full of cows, I didn’t tell Susie
that until we were there and it all went well 😊
Arrived in
Slapton after a lot of climbing. Spent some time reading the memorial that has
been erected around a Sherman Tank that had been recovered from the bottom of
the sea. This area was used in 1944 to practise the D Day landings. Some 30,000
troops landed on Slapton Sands. However the exercise had problems with a live
firing incident in which 100’s were killed in friendly fire. Then German
E-boats got into the convoy killing 749. 10 of the casualties were officers who
knew all about the landings and their bodies had to be recovered. The D Day
landings were almost called off because of this.
The road to
Kingsbridge and onto Plymouth was a main road and though the traffic was slow
moving it was really boring as it was just up and down with traffic, not much
choice though as there were no other routes available.
The rain
has now stopped
Crossed
over to Torpoint on the chain ferry. Chatted to a young navy lad who serves on
the submarines (Trafalgar class) that was currently docked for some engineering
works. Once on the other side had a sandwich and a cup of tea in Cornwalls #1
café (at least according to what they displayed on the wall). Was actually very
good 😊 Studied the map and found there
were roads that I could take that followed the coast
Lovely ride
to Looe where I tried to find a bike shop as my gears are playing up again but
nothing available. I really need to learn some basic bike maintenance as this
is ridiculous. Looe was very busy so happy that I had decided not to stay here
but to push on to Polperro
Polperro
was worth the effort as its just a beautiful fishing village. I have been here
before but its very different when you arrive on a bike. Found the B&B
checked in, showered, changed and then into the village to find something to
eat. Had a Pie in the Blue Peter Inn (best in Polperro) and then an early
night. Only 95km but at least 7 major climbs today
Wednesday, 14 August 2019
Day 5 - Sidmouth to Dartmouth 85km
Great nights sleep and waking to the sound of crashing waves. Perfect start
Monster
climb out of Sidmouth but spectacular views back out across the coast. Legs are
really tired so I am already thinking that my target of Barnstaple is
unrealistic. Probably could do it if I had to but where is the joy in just
pushing out the miles and not enjoying the actual journey. Just setting the
scene for excuses as to why I don’t make it but frankly the scenery is just too
beautiful and varied to just ride past it, heads down, cursing the hills
The route
to Exmouth was uneventful except at one point I made a bad decision and took a “short
cut” that didn’t work and I had to push the bike down a muddy embankment to get
onto the bike path which turned out to be a disused railway
Today I
have been incredibly lucky. I looked at the timing of the Exmouth ferry and as
it wasn’t running until something like 1030 decided my route should be up the
Ex estuary and then cross at Topsham further up. Good decision as the scenery
and the bike trail were both stunning. Not such a good idea as the ferry didn’t
run on Tuesdays! Found the hut and by a huge stroke a luck there was somebody
there. He had forgotten it was Tuesday and was just hanging around to see if
anybody turned up. Second oldest ferry route in the UK having been going for
500 years. Manhandled the bike onto the ferry and off the other side getting a
bit muddy in the process as it was low tide. He even waived the two pound fare,
what a gent 😊
The ride
back down the estuary was equally beautiful. Passed a family on Bromptons and Asked
how far they went on them. 50 miles easily but get the tyres changed to the
marathon ones as the standard ones aren’t very puncture resistant. Good advice
for next year.
Lost access
to the big ring on my gears so found a bike shop in Newton Abbot where he
adjusted the gears for me and where I was also able to buy a better coat than
the one I have with me. The one I have with me has lost all its water proofing
so it just useful to keep me warm in a shower. The new one is cheap and
cheerful but is at least a bit more shower proof than the one I have. I could
have gone for a rain proof one but whats the point I don’t intend to cycle
hours in the rain if it rains that much. The bike shop was part of a charity
complex for children providing a skate park. Great to see how much it was being
used
Lovely ride
through my fathers home town of Torquay famous for its palm trees and title of
the English Riviera. Cycled through Torre Abbey built in 1196 and along the
coast. Stopped for an ice cream, it is the seaside after all, and watched all
the holiday makers. Tourism is alive and well in the UK still and people
certainly seemed to be having a good time.
The day has
been one climb after another (though none quite as bad as the first one out of
Sidmouth) and I am tired so on reaching Dartmouth I stopped for the night.
Stayed in a 14th century inn just by the ferry next to a tavern and the
best fish and chip shop. Apart from being tired there was nowhere really to
stay between here and Plymouth and I want to go via Slapton Sands and Kingsbridge
and there was nothing down there I could find and its too far to start this late
in the day.
So that’s it,
Barnstaple is now not doable and frankly it’s a good decision. Sat with Google
maps for a while and have made some alternative routes. Depending on the hills
(and the profiles look very lumpy) I will be happy to make Penzance
Tuesday, 13 August 2019
Day 4 – Witchampton Mill to Sidmouth 131km
First day of serious cycling today as the previous 3 days all had certain limits and targets attached to them. Today though I was determined to get into Devon as I have big ambitions for the next few days and I need to hit some key targets to realise them. Breakfast with Paul and Alison and on the road by 0815 having had a great nights sleep (my alarm clock was Sam bumping my feet at 0630)
The route
took me through the back lanes of Dorset as I slowly wound my way to Devon.
Avoided all the towns on the way but I couldn’t help making a detour to the
Bovington tank museum. Didn’t have time to go in but cycling there and going
past learner tank drivers on the road rattling past and then watching Warriors
and Challengers on the proving grounds was quite a thrill. Took some photos of
the outside of the museum before heading off across country again.
Lovely
route avoiding all the big roads, skirted Dorchester and then through the
Valley of the Stone before my first monster hill climbs, like nothing I have
ever encountered before and a taste of whats to come I am sure. First climb was
up to Hardy’s monument which was not for Thomas Hardy but for Vice Admiral
Hardy who held the dying Nelson in his arms during the battle of Trafalgar.
Dropped
down and through a twisting route avoiding the A35 going through pretty Dorset
countryside and villages. Was getting low on energy at this point but found
nowhere to eat as all the pubs are closed on Mondays! Did find a cider shed
that Fredrik my friend from Sweden would have loved. Took a break there and
spoke to the young ladies running it (French and Italian doing language training
and helping out on the farm for the summer). No food but I did sample a small
glass of the local produce.
More hills
at just before Axminster and at Seaton which were just huge and at this late
stage in the day really tough! Did find a garage that was open so was at last
able to get a sandwich as by this time I had used up my last reserves. Arrived
in Sidmouth and got a good deal on a seafront facing room. Indifferent food but
went to sleep with the sound of the waves crashing on the beach below. Perfect
end to a hard days cycling
Day 3 – Calshot to Witchamptom Mill 63km
A short day ride as the aim today is to visit Paul. Breakfast with Steve and I was soon on the road on what was supposed to be a good weather ride. Calshot has a micro climate so my first few miles were in torrential rain. Soon cleared as soon as I left the area and then the route took me into the New Forest
What a
beautiful ride dodging the horses who wander were they like and the motorists
have to be avoid them. I encountered literally hundreds of them and it was a
joy to see that they were so relaxed and that they had complete right of way.
The scenery of the New Forest was also lovely as there are no major developments.
At one
point I overtook a steam engine towing a trailer that had 2 people in deckchairs
sitting in it 😊 Very relaxed way of travelling as
it was going slower than me. Stood my the side of the road to take a picture
and he tooted his steam whistle 😊
Later I
encountered a fellow cyclist lying on the side of the road so stopped to render
assistance. Turned out he had bonked which happens to us all and is when you
just have no energy left at all to carry on. Luckily I had a couple of power
bars in my back pocket (well they were breakfast cereal bars from the hotel in
London) so I gave one to him which gave him just enough energy to get home
which was only 5km down the road. He was very happy and asked me if I liked
coffee. I said sure expecting him to offer me something from one of his water
bottles (caffeine is used a lot by cyclists) but it turned out he is an
importer with a micro label. He took my address and promised to send me some 😊
Out of the
New Forest and cycling through Dorset was just magic. The roads were quiet, the
route was just about perfect and I passed so many quaint villages with thatched
cottages. Went past Neolithic burial mounds and an old beacon tower that was
used to warn of the arrival of the Spanish Armada in 1588
Navigating
by postcode worked well enough for Steve yesterday because he lived on an
estate. Didn’t work so well for Paul as his postcode is in the middle of a
forest with no mobile reception. So I just cycled on until the reception
worked.
Wasn’t easy
to find but got there in time to get a shower and then join him and his family for
Sunday lunch at a local pub owned by the community, what a great way to ensure
it doesn’t get closed and redeveloped into a house. Paul now works for the Earl
of Shaftsbury so he gave me a whistle stop tour of the estate and we stopped by
an old stone circle (one of a number in the area). Took ther dog Sam for a walk
and then later that evening Paul played in a ukulele band at another pub in the
area and that was an absolute blast. Alison and I sat at the back and had a
good old sing a long. Happy days 😊
Day 2 – Ryde to Calshot
The hotel
lost access to its gas supply so breakfast was a little limited. Everything
microwaved and to be honest a little inedible. Was glad to get back on the road
The storm
last night continued to blow all day so my circumnavigation of the island was
intere3sting to say the least. I have been to the island a few times as it was
where Susie and I had our first few wedding anniversaries. Took the road out of
Ryde and followed it to Sandown, Shanklin and Ventnor. Did my first big climb
up the Cowleaze Hill before dropping down into Bonchurch to check out the old
hotel that Susie and I used to stay in. Was still there but now a holiday home
complex. I had planned to ride across the top of the sea defences to Ventnor
but had to push the bike for some of the distance as the storm was whipping up
the waves.
Leaving
Ventnor I cycled past the Royal Hotel, a more recent stay a couple of years
ago, and then onto the road to Blackgang. This was a bit of gamble as Google
maps said there was a way through but the road had deadend signs on it and no
traffic. I know that this area of the coast had has problems with erosion and
that parts of the road had collapsed into the sea and that they also had
problems with landslides but I discovered from the postman that the road had
been reopened for cyclists and pedestrians so I was able to get through.
Once past
Blackgang what should have been an easy enough ride upto Freshwater Bay became
one of the most difficult bike rides I have ever done. With 40 knot winds
whipping in from the sea (which looked very dramatic) I was in constant danger
of being pushed into traffic. The wind was coming in from side so I had to ride
extremely slowly and grip the brakes so I could stop instantly I felt the bike
being pushed. Stopped in a couple of parking bays to get a rest, in one of them
I was chatting to a local family buying ice cream when a gust of wind pushed
the wife into a puddle it was that strong! On the last climb into Freshwater
Bay it was impossible to ride as the wind was swirling and coming at me from
various directions.
Thank
goodness that he route after that took me inland and rest of the ride to
Yarmouth and then onto East Cowes was far less adventurous. In hindsight the route
from Yarmouth should have been via West Cowes and then over the chain ferry but
somehow I messed that up. Just missed the ferry to Southampton so had a bit of
as wait but eventually made it back to the mainland. Had a lovely chat with
June on the ferry who had served a pay clerk in the civil service. Small world
so we chatted about our various memories of paying soldiers
Caught the
ferry to Hythe which has a very old electric train that takes you the length of
the pier. The road to Steves place in Calshot was easy enough to follow and
thus finished probably one of the most challenging days riding (at least with
regards wind) I have ever done. Lovely meal and a catchup with my friends.
Biggest disappointment
of today was that I let my phone run down to less than 15% and consequently Strava
crashed out. Yes it recorded where I started but it didn’t kick in again until I
was able to plug in my auxillary battery pack. Lesson learned, don’t let the
phone get low, Android does weird stuff with running apps
Day 1 – Brighton to Ryde 96km
This years
cycling was always going to be a little adhoc as the main priority of this
summer was my wifes gall bladder operation in London. I did try and be a little
proactive and initially planned 2 weeks at the start of the summer in which I
planned to cycle to Narvik up the middle of Sweden but this was cancelled as
Susie was admitted to hospital with gall bladder pain so I stayed behind to
keep an eye on her. I then decided that I needed to solve this issue I have with
not being able to travel with a bike within Sweden so I bought a Brompton but
this failed to arrive in time so that will have to be for next year.
Cut a long
story short we came back to the UK for Susie to have her gall bladder removed
and to have some vacation. At the end of our stay I added another week to my
planned time away from my client in Stockholm and instead picked up a hired
bike from “On Your Bike” in London Bridge. Took it back to our hotel and packed
a few essentials in the panniers they supplied before catching a train down to
Brighton. SJ in Sweden could learn so much from the British train operators as
the whole country is accessible by bike using the train. I don’t often have
anything to say against Sweden but this has proven to be one of my personal
disappointments.
Once at
Brighton I literally just turned right and followed the coast.
The bike is
a Trek 520 touring bike which is actually the first time I have ever had a real
touring bike as I have done all my cycling on a bog standard hybrid that I use
to do to work. Very sturdy and capable of taking quite a load it’s a bit
overkill for my 2 lightly loaded panniers. However I can see why they say that
a bike like this could be used to circumnavigate the world as she is certainly
sturdy. A little lower though than my normal bike caused by the tyres being
that bit more heavy duty.
From
Brighton I cycled through Shoreham by Sea and Worthing where I stopped briefly
to talk to a fellow touring cyclist from Iran. Always nice to chat to random
strangers and share experiences. From Worthing the route took me to Bognor
Regis (where decades ago my mum and dad took me to Butlins). Up to Chichester
which I bypassed and to Havant which is where I changed my route having
discovered that there was a ferry from Hayling Island over to Portsea Island.
Hayling Island is some where I was last on back in 1979 when Roger and I went
on a cycling holiday together just before we both joined the army.
That trip
saw us cycle from Hereford to Farnborough and pitching a tent in my Aunty
Sarahs garden before cycling down to Hayling Island and back. Our experiences
of that were rather damp as it poured with rain the whole time we were then
hence our return to Farnborough to recuperate. Once that was done we cycled
down to the Bovington tank museum before heading back to Hereford via Bristol
and the Severn Bridge. Sadly we didn’t make it to Hereford and rang my parents
and asked if they could give us a life back from St Arvans outside Chepstow. No
such options this year
Once on
Portsea I cycled up to Southsea where I had intended catching a ferry to Ryde
but then I happened to cycled past the hovercraft service so never having been
on a hovercraft before I decided to try that out and promptly arrived in Ryde.
Checked in at the Esplanade Hotel (terrible bed) and hardly slept a wink.
Combination of too big a meal and the storm that raged all night.
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