Little did i know but today was destined to be my last day of cycling though thats not how i had planned it, but i am getting ahead of myself
Breakfast was "late" starting at 0800 but with only 100km or so for the day that didn't phase me. Had by far the best nights sleep as the bed was very comfortable and the room quiet. Breakfast was the normal battle with the German geriatrics who all seem to come at exactly 0800. Maybe their day is all planned out for them and they have no choice. 0800 breakfast, 0900 water aerobics, 1000 water painting class, 1200 lunch etc...
On the road and got a little lost finding the right exit. Turned out to be a dog walkers path along the coast which soon became a really nice paved coastal road. My spirits sawed with the thought that this was what lay ahead for me. Alas it soon shifted to the normal soviet era pre-fab concrete slabs but that at least was a hell of a lot better than what was waiting for me.
Actually the morning and early afternoon were good. Progress had been a little slow in places due to road conditions but it wasnt that bad. At about 1500 i was within 20km or so of finishing for the day so was anticipating a 1630 end to the day. Looking at the maps supplied on big information boards (was going through a national park) the route looked very good as it would hug the coast giving me plenty of chances to enjoy the seaview. They even charge me 6zl for the privalage of entering the park, the lady who sells me the ticket asks do i really want to pay? What a strange question. Of course I think thats what she was asking cause she didnt speak any English. She did sell me 2 bottles of water as I had run out by this stage
Then disaster struck! The bike route (and i swear i didnt miss it) suddenly ended at the base of a massive sand dune. Neatly sign posted it looked the right way and knowing i was so close to finishing i assumed it was just one of those vagaries of the R10. So i pushed my bike up the sand dune and at the top, there was another. Ok, this can't be right, probably just over the next one the path starts? I guess you all can see where this is going. You ever tried pushing a heavily ladden bike through sand up and down dunes? After what seemed an age (but probably only 15 minutes) I see a party of school kids with their teachers coming towards me. I know I will ask them if there is a bike lane ahead. First teacher doesnt speak English, or the second, or the third. However one of the little boys says that he can speak English. Great I think. So he tells me his name is Paul, and i say I am Steve. And thats the limit of his English. Oh well. Of course last teacher doesnt speak Englidsh either. So I leave my bike and just carrying the bags walk to the next dune and the next. And of course all there is to see is dunes and now i relaise that even if there is a way through its going to be sand. So i cut my losses and backtrack. Shattered, shoes full of sand and lost at least an hour or more I eventually make it back to the lady who looks at me with a dead pan expression
So thinking the worst was over for the day I followed the alternative route with high hopes of making up the time. Then the road dead ended so i backtracked looking closely for the turn off only to find it was into a marsh. No kidding i have NEVER cycled on such horrendous surface, even sand would have been preferable as it was almost impossible to make headway. I slipped into stagnant pools and the bike and my wrists took a hammering from the potholes. I was convinced this was a joke road but lo and behold i was following other bike tracks and occassionally an R10 sign
I eventually arrived (after more sand roads) at Leba at 1800 exhausted only to find almost all the hotels closed. Guess people only ever come here if they have to because unless they are in a car its almost bloody impossible. The hotel I found though was a classic. An old castle right on the shore front. Showered, ate some food and literally collapsed into bed and sleep. Not before organising a taxi to Gdansk because today my friends destroyed all my faith in the Polish roads (not that I had much). If they were this bad getting in to Leba what the heck were they like getting out!
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