Many years ago when Susie and I arrived back In Sweden after a particularly long holiday touring Italy we told the lady at SJ (Swedish Railways) just what a pleasure it was to be back in Sweden after all our troubles we had in Italy. We came back from that holiday with many good dinner party stories of how things are done in Italy and how fustrating things were.
Well I have one now I can tell about Sweden, the county where I thought they get everything right.
One of my biggest concerns when going to Lund was how was I going to get back. So a few weeks ago we went to the central station here in Stockholm and asked about bringing bikes on the train. We were told that it wasn't possible between Malmo and Stockholm because of the type of train used.
Not to be deterred I contacted SJ again by phone to confirm that this applied to all trains and all routes and was told no it didnt apply to all routes and that as long as the train had some sort of carriage for bikes I could bring my bike. At least if the bike was packed up in a box it could be loaded as frieght.
So armed with this I set forth for Lund.
On Sunday I pedalled into town and asked about which train I could take only to be told that I had been given the wrong information and that it wasnt possible to bring the bike on the train at all, at least from Lund. I would have to send it by bus (packed in a box) and that the nearest Bus Goods station was in Malmo.
So on Monday I pedalled into Malmo and eventually located the bus goods station after having gone by the rail station and having it confirmed by the rail frieght companies that I couldnt send my bike with them. Of course I then had to find a bike shop that could pack my box and this took another 30 minutes.
However I must say the chaps at Fridhems Cykel were just great and they packed up my bike very efficiently. They even arranged for a cheap taxi to take me into town to the bus station. Thanks guys!
I then had a shower and changed into some less smelly travelling clothes before catching the X2000 train home. It was sad to travel back so fast, it made the effort seem so slight :)
Was wonderful to see Susie and Fredrik again, just shame my bike is still in Malmo
Distance : 34km
Time : 2 hours 12 minutes
Average : 15.35 kmph
Max : 31.10 kmph
Total for the trip
Distance : 1026km
Time : 57 hours 43 minutes
Average : 17.77 kmph
Max : 50.42 kmph (Day 6)
Longest Day : 203km
Shortest Day : Day 8
Tuesday 14 July 2009
Saturday 11 July 2009
Day 7 - Ystad to Lund
I have solved a medical problem that has baffled the world, how do you cure insomnia?
Simple. Cycle at least 100km a day every day. I assure you that you will sleep like a baby at night :)
Crashed out and was comotose until just before 8 this morning after completing my second biggest mileage day yesterday. I always knew it was going to be tough but just how tough I wasnt prepared for! The wind yesterday was bad.
A quick breakfast and I was off on the bike by 9am. Wandered around Ystad a bit taking photos and trying to get a ticket back to Stockholm. In the end had to contend with directions to Lund because they didnt sell tickets as far as Stockholm, seems that they could only sell tickets within Skane.
Got terribly lost leaving Ystad and ended up on the E65 so headed inland. Went the wrong way (ended up going in a big circle) and came across a medieval encampment. Thought I was seeing things as wenches walked among the men at arms dispensing breakfast, however the 4x4 gave away that this was not for real. Had a lovely chat with a couple from Denmark who travelled Europe selling jewelry before getting directions to the road I needed.
Great days cycling which I took very slowly as this was my last day.
Stopped for lunch at a little cafe in the middle of nowhere and realised my book was back in Ystad! Grr!! Was really enjoying it.
Later chatted to a Czech cyclist and swapped cycling war stories, really must try and do the Vettanrunt next year, is that spelt right?
Arrived in Lund about 3pm and went straight to the train station to buy a ticket, it was closed! Ended up in the Eco Bar where I bought a gift voucher for Torbjorn so that he could taste some Organic wines :)
Arrived at Torbjorns at 4pm and met his lovely new wife :) Wow has he changed :) His friend Peter that came with him to Hereford along with his wife and son came for dinner. A really lovely evening spent with genuine people. I'm not just saying that because I know they read this blog, was a great evening :)
Took the dogs for a walk (I really want a dog).
Wonderful end to a great week.
Distance covered: 70km
Time on bike: 4 hours 18 minutes
Average speed: 16.24 kmph
Max speed: 43.36 kmph
Simple. Cycle at least 100km a day every day. I assure you that you will sleep like a baby at night :)
Crashed out and was comotose until just before 8 this morning after completing my second biggest mileage day yesterday. I always knew it was going to be tough but just how tough I wasnt prepared for! The wind yesterday was bad.
A quick breakfast and I was off on the bike by 9am. Wandered around Ystad a bit taking photos and trying to get a ticket back to Stockholm. In the end had to contend with directions to Lund because they didnt sell tickets as far as Stockholm, seems that they could only sell tickets within Skane.
Got terribly lost leaving Ystad and ended up on the E65 so headed inland. Went the wrong way (ended up going in a big circle) and came across a medieval encampment. Thought I was seeing things as wenches walked among the men at arms dispensing breakfast, however the 4x4 gave away that this was not for real. Had a lovely chat with a couple from Denmark who travelled Europe selling jewelry before getting directions to the road I needed.
Great days cycling which I took very slowly as this was my last day.
Stopped for lunch at a little cafe in the middle of nowhere and realised my book was back in Ystad! Grr!! Was really enjoying it.
Later chatted to a Czech cyclist and swapped cycling war stories, really must try and do the Vettanrunt next year, is that spelt right?
Arrived in Lund about 3pm and went straight to the train station to buy a ticket, it was closed! Ended up in the Eco Bar where I bought a gift voucher for Torbjorn so that he could taste some Organic wines :)
Arrived at Torbjorns at 4pm and met his lovely new wife :) Wow has he changed :) His friend Peter that came with him to Hereford along with his wife and son came for dinner. A really lovely evening spent with genuine people. I'm not just saying that because I know they read this blog, was a great evening :)
Took the dogs for a walk (I really want a dog).
Wonderful end to a great week.
Distance covered: 70km
Time on bike: 4 hours 18 minutes
Average speed: 16.24 kmph
Max speed: 43.36 kmph
Friday 10 July 2009
Day 6 - Karlhamn to Ystad
Woke at 3.55 so decided to make an early start. Breakfast in bed (ok, breakfast ON bed to be exact) and I was on the road by 5.10am.
My knee felt fine and my butt is getting used to the rubbing so the morning ride flew by! Lovely weather, wonderful countryside.
Skane is nothing I like I thought it would be, this cant possibly be Sweden, at least the Sweden I have come to know. With the sun and beaches you would have though that you are in some exotic holiday spot somewhere in the Med. Ahus in particular was a gem with its beaches and its pier. Could have been somewhere on the South Coast of England except it was clean and there was no tacky fish and chip shops and amusement arcades!
Cycling South I came across a dream fishermans cottage right on the beach! I would love to live there I can tell you :)
Stopped at a little art gallery come cafe which also had internet for lunch. Great day so far and I only have about 40-60km to do before reaching Ystad which is my destination for tonight.
Afternoon started well but I hadn't reckoned on the wind coming back like yesterday and boy did it!! A howling headwind made progress very slow coupled with intermittent showers so I was constantly stopping putting on and taking off various waterproof layers.
Finally Ystad appeared on the road signs and I slowly pedalled the final kilometers to town. Found the hotel, checked in, showered, had some pasta and then vegged watching TV for the first time in a week. Ghostbusters really is a crap film.
Distance covered: 171 km
Time on bike: 9 hours 32 minutes
Average speed: 17.88 kmph
Max speed: 50.42 kmph
My knee felt fine and my butt is getting used to the rubbing so the morning ride flew by! Lovely weather, wonderful countryside.
Skane is nothing I like I thought it would be, this cant possibly be Sweden, at least the Sweden I have come to know. With the sun and beaches you would have though that you are in some exotic holiday spot somewhere in the Med. Ahus in particular was a gem with its beaches and its pier. Could have been somewhere on the South Coast of England except it was clean and there was no tacky fish and chip shops and amusement arcades!
Cycling South I came across a dream fishermans cottage right on the beach! I would love to live there I can tell you :)
Stopped at a little art gallery come cafe which also had internet for lunch. Great day so far and I only have about 40-60km to do before reaching Ystad which is my destination for tonight.
Afternoon started well but I hadn't reckoned on the wind coming back like yesterday and boy did it!! A howling headwind made progress very slow coupled with intermittent showers so I was constantly stopping putting on and taking off various waterproof layers.
Finally Ystad appeared on the road signs and I slowly pedalled the final kilometers to town. Found the hotel, checked in, showered, had some pasta and then vegged watching TV for the first time in a week. Ghostbusters really is a crap film.
Distance covered: 171 km
Time on bike: 9 hours 32 minutes
Average speed: 17.88 kmph
Max speed: 50.42 kmph
Day 5 - Kristainopol to Karlhamn
Another great night sleep and this time I made sure I had breakfast as I had bought a bunch of stuff the day before. After 4 servings of musili I gave up trying to eat the whole packet. Made some sandwiches, packed my bags and read my book. In other words I took it easy.
Was on the road at the unearthly late hour of 8.30am. My knee was killing me again and today I had the distinct pleasure of a headwind to contend with.
Needless to say I had no option to slowly churn the miles as I wound along the Blekinge coastline. Beautiful scenery so I took my time and relaxed.
After lunch at a roadside pizzeria my knee started to feel a little better and within an hour it was almost pain free. This bode well but the headwind was still a killer. When I reached Karlhamn I took one look at the map and decided that it was too far to the next place with accommodation especially with the headwind that was blowing.
Susie rang around and found a fantastic hotel called the Hotel Bode. Open since the 1950's with still some of the original fittings this was a little gem. Clean, quiet and cheap. The owner was very welcoming.
Karlhamn was dead after 7 so I grabbed some Chinese food (treated myself to a Banana Split), picked up some breakfast and then went to bed.
Distance covered: 119km
Time on bike: 7 hours 4 minutes
Average speed: 16.78 kmph
Max speed: 46.16 kmph
Was on the road at the unearthly late hour of 8.30am. My knee was killing me again and today I had the distinct pleasure of a headwind to contend with.
Needless to say I had no option to slowly churn the miles as I wound along the Blekinge coastline. Beautiful scenery so I took my time and relaxed.
After lunch at a roadside pizzeria my knee started to feel a little better and within an hour it was almost pain free. This bode well but the headwind was still a killer. When I reached Karlhamn I took one look at the map and decided that it was too far to the next place with accommodation especially with the headwind that was blowing.
Susie rang around and found a fantastic hotel called the Hotel Bode. Open since the 1950's with still some of the original fittings this was a little gem. Clean, quiet and cheap. The owner was very welcoming.
Karlhamn was dead after 7 so I grabbed some Chinese food (treated myself to a Banana Split), picked up some breakfast and then went to bed.
Distance covered: 119km
Time on bike: 7 hours 4 minutes
Average speed: 16.78 kmph
Max speed: 46.16 kmph
Day 4 - Timmernabben to Kristianopel
Wonderful nights sleep, woke early, packed and dressed and then looked at my watch. I was way too early for breakfast and was far too impatient to wait so I left just before 7 and hit the road. I ate what little food I had on me and thought that would be enough as Kalmar wasnt that far.
Big mistake. Firstly the food didnt supply the right amount of calories I needed, secondly my knee hurt like hell so it was a huge effort to get anywhere and thirdly Kalmar was 50km!
Needless to say I arrived in Kalmar exhausted and in need of food so after asking about an internet cafe I found somewhere to eat and scoffed some pasta. After I uploaded some video on YouTube and wrote my blog.
All in all I spent 2 hours resting my knee hoping that it would feel a lot better. Once I got going again though it started playing up so the afternoon was slow going and painful.
At about 5 in the afternoon I came across a wonderful little village called Kristianopel so decided to stay. My initial queries at the local guesthouse drew a blank so I ended up on a camp site sleeping in a youth hostel built in the 1950's and is the oldest in Sweden. I was a bit dubious as all the amenities were a 100 metre walk away but I didnt have to worry as it all worked out fine.
After showering (5 krona and make sure at no times you have soap in your eyes because thats when the water will cut off, guaranted) I dressed up in my finest T-Shirt and trainers and wandered around. I ended up eating back at the camp site and reading my book.
Got chatting to a Swedish couple from Stockholm who said that everywhere else was booked and that they were eating at the camp site as a last resort. I somehow felt offended as their was nothing wrong with the food. The people on the camp site were all on budget holidays but that doesnt make them 2nd class citizens.
It was glorious countryside again today with far less hills this time (thank goodness, I couldnt have surrived it was the same as yesterday). I am loving this part of Sweden, I had no idea it was so beautiful.
Distance covered: 125km
Time on bike: 7 hours 6 mins
Average speed: 17.57 kmph
Max speed: 36.46 kmph
Big mistake. Firstly the food didnt supply the right amount of calories I needed, secondly my knee hurt like hell so it was a huge effort to get anywhere and thirdly Kalmar was 50km!
Needless to say I arrived in Kalmar exhausted and in need of food so after asking about an internet cafe I found somewhere to eat and scoffed some pasta. After I uploaded some video on YouTube and wrote my blog.
All in all I spent 2 hours resting my knee hoping that it would feel a lot better. Once I got going again though it started playing up so the afternoon was slow going and painful.
At about 5 in the afternoon I came across a wonderful little village called Kristianopel so decided to stay. My initial queries at the local guesthouse drew a blank so I ended up on a camp site sleeping in a youth hostel built in the 1950's and is the oldest in Sweden. I was a bit dubious as all the amenities were a 100 metre walk away but I didnt have to worry as it all worked out fine.
After showering (5 krona and make sure at no times you have soap in your eyes because thats when the water will cut off, guaranted) I dressed up in my finest T-Shirt and trainers and wandered around. I ended up eating back at the camp site and reading my book.
Got chatting to a Swedish couple from Stockholm who said that everywhere else was booked and that they were eating at the camp site as a last resort. I somehow felt offended as their was nothing wrong with the food. The people on the camp site were all on budget holidays but that doesnt make them 2nd class citizens.
It was glorious countryside again today with far less hills this time (thank goodness, I couldnt have surrived it was the same as yesterday). I am loving this part of Sweden, I had no idea it was so beautiful.
Distance covered: 125km
Time on bike: 7 hours 6 mins
Average speed: 17.57 kmph
Max speed: 36.46 kmph
Wednesday 8 July 2009
Day 3 - Vastervik to Timmernabben
Glorious weather today so it was with some delight I took to the road. I had slept very well though I had to get up quite a few times during the night to pee. Maybe I am drinking too much?
Looked around Vastervik for about 5 minutes and took a few piccies before heading out to find the bike road.
The ride down to Oskarham was a delight. Rolling back roads through the woods and lakes of Smaland reminded me so much of home. So many farms here, something you just dont see around Stockholm. It was over 100km to Oskarham which was incredible because there was noway it looked that much on the map. The ups and downs also took their toll on my legs so was very tired when I stopped for a pasta lunch in the middle of nowhere.
Navigating through the bigger towns is always a challenge and I did a pretty good job until the last bit where I went wrong and ended up on the E22 (again). Backtracked and found the right road though I did stop off at a bike shop and get some new brakes and a new backlight. I havent had a functioning back brake for a while now and when I was on the E22 at dusk yesterday I was very conscious that my back light was obscured by the panniers.
Decided not to push on too far today so I stopped at a Vandrahem in Timmernabben (sounds more like a Welsh village to me). I was a little conscious that the place was overrun by kids but it all turned out well. I shared my cabin (communual toilets, shower and eating area, private bedrooms) with a middle aged couple from Colarado who were travelling around looking for her relatives. Very pleasant 30 minutes spent swapping war stories about travels.
An indifferent pizza followed by a glorious nights sleep :)
Distance covered : 139km
Time on bike: 7 hours 20 minutes
Average speed : 18.99 kmph
Fastet speed: 44.84
Looked around Vastervik for about 5 minutes and took a few piccies before heading out to find the bike road.
The ride down to Oskarham was a delight. Rolling back roads through the woods and lakes of Smaland reminded me so much of home. So many farms here, something you just dont see around Stockholm. It was over 100km to Oskarham which was incredible because there was noway it looked that much on the map. The ups and downs also took their toll on my legs so was very tired when I stopped for a pasta lunch in the middle of nowhere.
Navigating through the bigger towns is always a challenge and I did a pretty good job until the last bit where I went wrong and ended up on the E22 (again). Backtracked and found the right road though I did stop off at a bike shop and get some new brakes and a new backlight. I havent had a functioning back brake for a while now and when I was on the E22 at dusk yesterday I was very conscious that my back light was obscured by the panniers.
Decided not to push on too far today so I stopped at a Vandrahem in Timmernabben (sounds more like a Welsh village to me). I was a little conscious that the place was overrun by kids but it all turned out well. I shared my cabin (communual toilets, shower and eating area, private bedrooms) with a middle aged couple from Colarado who were travelling around looking for her relatives. Very pleasant 30 minutes spent swapping war stories about travels.
An indifferent pizza followed by a glorious nights sleep :)
Distance covered : 139km
Time on bike: 7 hours 20 minutes
Average speed : 18.99 kmph
Fastet speed: 44.84
Tuesday 7 July 2009
Day 2 - Nykoping to Vastervik
Not a bad nights sleep though I have had better. I think somebody tried to come into my room about 21.30 because my handle was rattled. Then the kids upstairs started singing and playing guitars so it was time for the earplugs.
Woke at 6.45 so repacked the bags and went for breakfast. On the road by 7.35.
What a day!
Rain, wind, more rain and complete lack of places to stay kept me on the go for almost 14 hours. The countryside though was green and pleasant with lots of dairy farms dotted around.
The mystery of the missing road was solved when I found that the cycle path that I had followed the day before had taken me around a bank of trees. Of course the turnoff was the otherside of these trees and therefore that's why I completely missed it.
Also it was good I did as it was 70km to Soderkoping and I didnt get there until lunchtime. I seem to have underestimated the distances so I need to be careful about overcommittimg myself. There is a fair distance between towns which can be exhausting at the end of the day.
The road from Soderkoping was elusive (I getting to hate towns) and it took me 45 minutes to eventually find it thanks to a young lad selling icecream next to the Gota canal. The road was very pretty but the rain and drizzle hardly stopped all afternoon.
Evetually made it to Gamleby where I started to look for somewhere to stay. Had a meal at a pizzeria and they phoned around and found me somewhere to stay. Only problem is I was unable to find it and ended up cycling along the E22 to Vastervik where Susie had phoned ahead and booked me a room.
A bit pricey but it was just what I needed. A warm bath seemed to solve the muscle ache in my lower back and after quickly washing my clothes I went to bed.
Distance covered: 203km
Time on bike: 10 hours 35 minutes
Average speed : 19.20 kmph
Max speed : 45.07 kmph
Woke at 6.45 so repacked the bags and went for breakfast. On the road by 7.35.
What a day!
Rain, wind, more rain and complete lack of places to stay kept me on the go for almost 14 hours. The countryside though was green and pleasant with lots of dairy farms dotted around.
The mystery of the missing road was solved when I found that the cycle path that I had followed the day before had taken me around a bank of trees. Of course the turnoff was the otherside of these trees and therefore that's why I completely missed it.
Also it was good I did as it was 70km to Soderkoping and I didnt get there until lunchtime. I seem to have underestimated the distances so I need to be careful about overcommittimg myself. There is a fair distance between towns which can be exhausting at the end of the day.
The road from Soderkoping was elusive (I getting to hate towns) and it took me 45 minutes to eventually find it thanks to a young lad selling icecream next to the Gota canal. The road was very pretty but the rain and drizzle hardly stopped all afternoon.
Evetually made it to Gamleby where I started to look for somewhere to stay. Had a meal at a pizzeria and they phoned around and found me somewhere to stay. Only problem is I was unable to find it and ended up cycling along the E22 to Vastervik where Susie had phoned ahead and booked me a room.
A bit pricey but it was just what I needed. A warm bath seemed to solve the muscle ache in my lower back and after quickly washing my clothes I went to bed.
Distance covered: 203km
Time on bike: 10 hours 35 minutes
Average speed : 19.20 kmph
Max speed : 45.07 kmph
Sunday 5 July 2009
Day 1 - Stockholm to somewhere outside Nyköping
Susie and Fredrik made me a wonderful breakfast which really set me up for the day. I was on the road by 0715 with the aim of getting as far as Söderköping.
Well it wasnt to be.
Roger was right, I should have bought the Garmin because my maps and the horrendous signposts in Nyköping resulted in me getting totally lost. However I am jumping ahead of myself.
The morning ride to Trösa was a dream. Lovely weather, empty roads, a punnet of Strawberries and minimal wait for the ferry meant that I was having lunch 4 hours and exacly 80km after leaving home. Gave myself a 40 minute break I was feeling pretty ok (is this day 1) before pushing on to Nyköping.
The afternoon ride was a lot less interesting than the morning as the roads weren't as interesting. I did at one point leave the route plotted on the map as there was an alternative signposted. It turned out that this diversion was the best part of the afternoon. I did a couple of video blogs but niether came out :( gutted :(
Nyköping was a nightmare to navigate through and I ended up on the Oxelholm road. Not so bad as I actually could find that road but I missed the turnoff hence I ended up in Oxelholm before realising I had screwed up. Not like me to go so badly wrong, guess I was more tired than I thought.
Decided to call it a day and checked into a lovely old Slott which seems to be run by the church. They have some cheaper rooms so opted for one of those. No television, just a bible, so lucky I bought the iPod :)
Distance covered : 165 km
Time on bike : 7 and a half hours
Average speed : 22kmph
Max speed : 47.24kmph
Well it wasnt to be.
Roger was right, I should have bought the Garmin because my maps and the horrendous signposts in Nyköping resulted in me getting totally lost. However I am jumping ahead of myself.
The morning ride to Trösa was a dream. Lovely weather, empty roads, a punnet of Strawberries and minimal wait for the ferry meant that I was having lunch 4 hours and exacly 80km after leaving home. Gave myself a 40 minute break I was feeling pretty ok (is this day 1) before pushing on to Nyköping.
The afternoon ride was a lot less interesting than the morning as the roads weren't as interesting. I did at one point leave the route plotted on the map as there was an alternative signposted. It turned out that this diversion was the best part of the afternoon. I did a couple of video blogs but niether came out :( gutted :(
Nyköping was a nightmare to navigate through and I ended up on the Oxelholm road. Not so bad as I actually could find that road but I missed the turnoff hence I ended up in Oxelholm before realising I had screwed up. Not like me to go so badly wrong, guess I was more tired than I thought.
Decided to call it a day and checked into a lovely old Slott which seems to be run by the church. They have some cheaper rooms so opted for one of those. No television, just a bible, so lucky I bought the iPod :)
Distance covered : 165 km
Time on bike : 7 and a half hours
Average speed : 22kmph
Max speed : 47.24kmph
Saturday 4 July 2009
Less than 24 hours to go!
Unpacked my bags again to take a look at what I had packed. Lucky I did as I found some shopping of Susies from last weekend (material and various reels of cotton) at the bottom of one of them! Anyway went through everything and I am now pretty much ready to go except for filling my bottles with water and getting dressed :)
We took some video so will upload that later
We took some video so will upload that later
Friday 3 July 2009
48 hours to go
Had a pedicure yesterday so my feet are in tip top condition :) Of course the women who did ti said my feet smell and that I have fungus everywhere so now she has given me a ton of lotions and potions to apply. Not a chance as I have to leave soon so I guess I do it when I get home.
I haven't booked my first night. Decided to wait and see how far I get because I am feeling a little pressured by the scale of this ride. Though I did 3000km around Ireland and regularly do 150km at weekends this is the first time I am going away for more than 2 days since I cycled with a friend when I was 15 (30 years ago!!!). Another worry for me is this heat, it sure is hot at the moment.
Will pack my paniers again tonight to make sure I have everything.
Too excited to really work, hence I am rambling here. Better look busy, boss is hovering :)
I haven't booked my first night. Decided to wait and see how far I get because I am feeling a little pressured by the scale of this ride. Though I did 3000km around Ireland and regularly do 150km at weekends this is the first time I am going away for more than 2 days since I cycled with a friend when I was 15 (30 years ago!!!). Another worry for me is this heat, it sure is hot at the moment.
Will pack my paniers again tonight to make sure I have everything.
Too excited to really work, hence I am rambling here. Better look busy, boss is hovering :)
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